Wednesday, 7 October 2026

Grey stone houses in Geres - Brandas and Inverneiras

The first time I was in Peneda-Geres National Park (North of Portugal) was about 20 years ago. At that time I went with a group of language students from an English academy in Porto. We went in May to one of the most touristic hotspots of the Park - Vila of Geres. The trip allowed me to have only a glimpse of all the potential the Park has to offer in terms of walking, climbing, swimming, culture, folklore and food. I returned almost 20 years later but to the Peneda part of the Park, and I have been exploring different areas since then. One of the most interesting things I learnt are the history of the Brandas and Inverneiras. The region's main economy in the past was agriculture and livestock rearing. Due to the high mountains (many above the 1000m), large spaces were covered by snow in the winter and could not be used to feed the animals. However, this fallow time with frozen soil and without stocking, has the advantage of regenerating the land and of producing good quality and nutricious grass that can feed the livestock from April/May to October. People, whose livelihoods depended on agriculture and which was highly impacted by the natural cycles and seasons, learnt they could benefit from this if they moved the cattle between the lowlands in the winter - Inverneiras- Inverno, to the highlands in the summer - brandas (group of summer houses built in stone). This movement of people and livestock is deeply imprinted in the landscape and culture of the region. A large network of highly functional (and beautiful) paths was built throughout hills as well as the stone houses that would host families during the spring and summer times. I have heard than even the teachers would move to the Brandas so the children could continue in school. This is not unique of Portugal and many other countries have developed similar systems, as for example Iran (I have learned this from an Iranian friend). The Branda de Santo Antonio of Vale de Poldros and its history has been protrayed by my favourite programme of portuguese public TV - Visita Guiada, created and presented by Paula Moura Pinheiro. The episode can be watched here: https://www.rtp.pt/play/p3373/e306702/visita-guiada