Tuesday, 27 January 2026

Blue lake at Barragem de Santa Luzia

This is very peaceful inland beach created by the Santa Luzia dam. A book can be read, a boat can be sailed and a via ferrata can be climbed. I did not know much about what via ferratas were until I came across this one. A via ferrata can be defined as "a protected climbing route which includes steel fixtures such as cables and railings to arrest the effect of any fall, which the climber can either hold onto or clip into using climbing protection." Another definition is "a path in rock walls, prepared with stairs, cables, pythons, among other supports to facilitate the progression and optimize the safety of climbers." I have never climbed a via ferrata. I think rock climbing (sports climbing or traditional) is more exciting and less artificial. In any case, I think it would be easy to climb a via ferrata and would definetly give it a go. Especially, it would be worthwile to do it at Santa Luzia dam, surrounded by a beautiful and inspiring landscape.

Tuesday, 20 January 2026

Green and ancient landscape at Serra do Açor

Serra do Açor is one of the many hills we have been up in Portugal. It is located in the middle of the Schist villages (Aldeias do Xisto), which are a network of 27 traditional, historic and almost abandoned (some with as much as 5 inhabitants) villages in Central Portugal, and which houses are built almost entirely with the schist rock, quarried locally. The landscape is protected and hosts pockets of the ancient forests and vegetation- in Portugal. Serra do Açor is located at 1438 m altitude but there is no obvious path up the hill so we had to follow the old maps from IGEO (carta militar) and our own instinct. Fortunately, there is now an Adventure Map for Serras da Lousã and Açor. These maps are essential to navigate in the countryside in Portugal, for which good and updated maps are almost inexistent. The Adventure Maps are topographics map and provide suggestions for hiking trails in the covered areas, some relevant tourist atractions, freshwater beaches and swimming areas, waterfalls, campsites, picnic areas, tourist offices and climbing and hang-gliding spots. We have all available maps created so far and use these maps to find our climbing spots, our own hiking trails and quiet places for water dips. And it is amazing that most villages in Serras- da Lousã and Açor have this hidden treasury at everyone's disposal. It is important to choose the quietest villages, as some have become too touristic and have lost their essence, as for example Piódão, visited once and not to go back.

Wednesday, 14 January 2026

Golden walls in Castelo de Vide

Castelo de Vide was a surprise. We had a good stroll in this little town in Alto Alentejo full of exquisite corners, perfect to spy on the landscape ahead. Contrary to Marvão, this town was burst with life. In there we could smell culture and tradition, and good food. There is a judiaria (jewish quarter) as jews lived in Castelo de Vide since the 15th century when expelled from the Spanish inquisition. They were involved in activities such as commerce, crafts, and medicine. We almost could feel their presence and many signs could be seen, as well as architecture and even a sinagogue. After the expulsion order promulgated in 1496 by King Manuel I of Portugal, many Jewish families left Castelo de Vide, while others were allowed to stay, provided they converted to Christianity. This was a dark period of our story and of the story of the peninsula. How many families had to live and were persecuted and how many brains were lost to other countries with this expulsion. The dark ages of intolerance and ignorance, which are coming back again...

Sunday, 11 January 2026

White church in empty Marvão

During the pandemic, as soon as we could travel, at least internally, travelling we went. For someone who grew up in the coast and lived by the coast for most of her life, travelling to inland Portugal was almost the same as travelling to a foreign country. In inland Portugal, the time almost stops, stress does not exist and it is so very quiet (apart from the dogs barking - there are always dogs barking in Portugal). Marvão is a village located at the top of Sao Mamede mountain (approximately 860 meters above sea level). We arrived to Marvão from the bottom of the hill, walking through one small hiking trail or PR (Pequena rota - small route). It was slightly zigzagging as the route was not very well marked and because landowners still think they can block these trails in places. Nevertheless, it was much more satisfying to arrive by foot than by car or bus, as most people do. Marvão was almost a ghost village, it seems that no one lived there, there was almost no life, only many spots with a view to the huge landscape and horizon of Alto Alentejo. The view and the silence were appreciated. The Marvão International Music Festival, which happens in Marvão at the end of July and beggining of August, brings classical music to the roof of Alto Alentejo.